Tuesday, December 2, 2008

South Dakota - The Sale


                                  The Sale 

Lightning flashes on the horizon in all directions as we land in the last light of day, the wings of the small plane tipping toward the tarmac in the gusty wind, first one and then the other. The rippling flash disturbs the orderliness of the perfectly square, perfectly green, perfectly straight-rowed fields that surround Joe Foss Field in Sioux Falls, South Dakota. It creates shadows where there should be none. It lights uneven shapes in brilliance and leaves others hidden nearby, the flashes rolling like a kaleidoscope.

As always, these perfect fields seem sinister to me, lying in judgment of those whose edges are irregular, whose shapes won’t conform, like mine. And yet there is comfort in their regularity too, like the patchwork quilt you pull around your shoulders on a cold night. They are the shape of my first memories, the cry of emotion that has no name, the edges I push without thinking, the place from which I came out into the world. They are home.

Watertown, a city of 26,000 where my brother and his family live, is 90 miles north on a good highway. Although the sky has just now darkened, it is nearly 10:30 at night, evidence that we are far north where days are long in summer. My boyfriend Wayne and I are driving through the heart of the Sioux Nation, the gathering place of the old tribes. I am at the wheel of our rental car. Buffalo can still be seen grazing along this highway, although tonight they are not visible. The flatness stretches out over the plains and it’s easy to imagine the six-foot-tall grass that once covered it all, waving in the wind like an inland ocean. The night is hot and sticky, and the lightning show continues, shimmering across the horizon, first right, then center, then left, then in a tremendous flash lighting the whole sky. The gods are restless. There are few other cars on the road. A feeling of standing alone in the midst of all this drama falls over me, a tiny being on a pinto pony with a twitching tail disguised as a Ford Escort.

We drive on through the eerie night, maximum speed 75 miles per hour. Our ears are popping continuously although there isn’t a hill in sight—barometric pressure. In the blackness I feel the familiar tug of the past dragging me back into the girl I was. How easy it is to fall into the silence, as if it were normal. As the road sign for Watertown appears on our right—Watertown Exit 2 Miles—the sky rips open abruptly and a roaring flood engulfs our windshield. I hit the brakes, unable to see the road, and Wayne shouts, “I can drive!”

“I’m not getting out of this car to change places. We’ll drown, like turkeys,” I yell back. “I can make it two miles.”

The rain is unbelievably thick, coming down hard in sheets. It’s so loud we think it must be hail, but nothing bounces. I drive slowly, leaning forward as close to the window as the steering wheel will allow, hoping to see the exit through the deluge outside. There it is, and I ease off the dark streaming highway with a sigh of relief. Now there are the lights of restaurants and gas stations, signs of fragile civilization. I turn right and right again onto the county road leading to my brother’s new home on the hill.

From the road we see the house, front floodlights blazing in welcome. We pull into the circular drive and stop the car well in front of the triple garage doors. The rain continues to pound.

“Should we run for the house?” Wayne ventures, peering reluctantly out the window.

“Let’s wait a few minutes and see if it lets up.”

Five minutes pass, our breath steaming the windows, and it seems the roar diminishes. “OK, let’s go.” We throw open the doors and scramble to the shelter of the entry, leaving the luggage behind for now. Should we ring the bell at this hour? They are expecting us, although they normally go to bed early. Wayne tries the door and it gives. It is unlocked. We push it open and spot a large piece of paper, a note, on the floor inside.
 

Welcome, Wayne and Dana!

We have gone to bed. Your room is ready downstairs. There is wine and a snack in the kitchen. Have a good night’s sleep and we’ll see you in the morning!

Love, Marlys & Jim

 
I think of the book In Cold Blood, the innocent rural family murdered in the night by psychopathic drifters. I think of my pretty home in a good neighborhood in Oakland, and know I wouldn’t intentionally leave the door unlocked late at night for any reason. And then I remember we never locked any doors when my brother and I were growing up on our farm an hour and a half east of here.

The rain is now a gentle shower, and Wayne retrieves the luggage from the car. The note doesn’t say to lock the door, but I do and turn off the floodlights as well before we go to bed.

                                                          * * *


            Every year for the past six or seven years, my sister-in-law Marlys has held a garage sale in mid-summer. She says she loves it because her daughters and their boyfriends, then husbands, come to help and it’s a family party. I have never come for the sale, but this year it includes the contents of my 95-year-old mother’s home as well as that of my sister-in-law’s 92-year-old mother, so I have agreed to come from California to help.

Today, the day after our stormy arrival, dawns sunny, hot, and humid. It is the day before the sale begins, and the task of finishing the pricing lies ahead. After warm greetings all the way around and hugs over coffee, Marlys and I arm ourselves with stickers and pens and go out among the many tables, set up in rows to facilitate traffic flow and already piled with neatly stacked and arranged items.

Over the years, the sale has evolved from a one-day event to a three-day extravaganza. It has grown from covering the tops of a couple of tables in one bay of the garage to this year filling the entire three-car garage plus several of my brother’s large equipment trailers parked in front. My nieces and their husbands have cleared out their closets and storage places, and Marlys has emptied her secret stashes of furniture, clothing, games, books, tools, whole sets of dishes and myriad other things she has squirreled away. I know she buys many of these at auctions and farm sales during the year, often at very low prices, thinking her daughters might like this and that or she might use a certain item around the house. I hope she comes out even.

I work on my mother’s dishes and linens. It’s odd to handle these familiar things, these dish towels, these tablecloths, the plates and cups and bowls of my youth. There’s not much I haven’t seen before, although occasionally a surprise emerges. I turn over an old book written in Norwegian, and then another. I carefully unwrap a set of pewter salt and pepper shakers encased in fragile yellow paper. I haven’t seen these before. They are engraved Clara, my grandmother’s name, and I guess they were a wedding gift to my mother’s mother, who died long before I was born and whom I’ve been told I resemble. As I put them in my personal bag, an unexpected wave of regret and something like guilt brings tears to my eyes. My mother and I have had a difficult relationship. I still want to have her love and acceptance, and she is even less able to give that now than she was in younger years. I feel guilty for parting with her treasured things, although her fading mind doesn’t remember she ever had them and her faltering body has no earthly use for them any longer. Perhaps I will keep a few of the most precious of them, like these shakers, as a solace.

In the afternoon, Wayne and I have an errand. His former wife, also a friend of mine, grew up in a little town about 50 miles north of here, near the North Dakota border.  Mary still owns her mother’s home, the home she grew up in, in Rosholt, South Dakota, a town of 600 people. The house is standing vacant and is for sale. Mary left long ago to live in California and hasn’t been in Rosholt for many years, and she has asked us to go see what condition the house is in.

We’re driving the same highway we traveled the night before, which runs straight north and south the length of the state paralleling the border with Minnesota. Fields line both sides of the road in this farming country, although this far north the fields are more prone to be stacked with bales of straw than lined with rows of corn.

“Wayne, look at those huge round bales. When I was a child, they still gathered the hay and straw in shocks. I thought they looked like golden tepees.” I point out the window to a field filled with immense golden sushi rolls of hay.

“I remember seeing rectangular ones,” Wayne says. “I haven’t seen these big round things before. They don’t look like they’d stack very well.”

Right after he says this we pass a field where dozens of the big round rolls are stacked neatly end on end, squared off and in symmetry with the fields, undoubtedly a testament to the rightness and the rectitude of the farmer.

“That reminds me of a field I saw in Minnesota where the rectangular bales were stacked in the most amazing pattern,” I say. “It had empty spaces and geometric outcroppings made with the bales. That farmer was an artist, and brave too. And probably young.” Wayne laughs.

“Yeah, and he was probably from somewhere else too,” he says as he looks over at me. “I’ll bet he eventually had to conform and stack his bales like everyone else, or else he moved to California like you did.”

I nod, remembering how glad I had been to escape.

From the highway, we turn onto the county road leading to Rosholt, seven miles away. Soon we see a few buildings.

Rosholt has the look of all small towns in this part of the world. It looks like the towns around my hometown in southwestern Minnesota, rich in spirit and poor in resources. There are few choices—one grocery store, two gas stations, two bars, two churches (one Roman Catholic and one Lutheran)) and one furniture store whose owner doubles as the town’s undertaker, embalming the departed in the back room. Mary has told Wayne of sneaking into the back room of the furniture store as a young girl to watch the embalming. Entertainment here is limited.

Mary’s house is easy to find; it’s the only red house in town. Mary’s mother had it painted bright red, and she was proud of it. Wayne and I pull up in the driveway.

“I wonder if we should have tried to find the realtor to get the key,” Wayne says, as he turns the car off and opens his door. “Mary says the realtor doesn’t like to come over here because it’s on the bad side of town.”

“How could a town this small have a bad side?” I laugh, as I follow him up to the house.

Wayne tries the side door. It’s unlocked. He pushes it open onto a small porch. To the left is the inside door going into the kitchen. It’s also unlocked and it has a huge hole in it.

“Wow, this is kind of a mess.” The carpets inside the house are dirty and torn. The walls are stained with what looks like water leakage and there are a few empty cardboard boxes strewn about. Otherwise the house is empty. I take photographs all over the house to send to Mary. There is a car, 1970’s vintage, parked in the garage on the other side of the porch. I take photographs of the car, and the open door, and the tilting For Sale sign on the front side of the house.

There are several abandoned houses in Rosholt, including one across the street from Mary’s house. Mary thinks she has an offer for her red house, although it is a very low offer. Now that we’ve seen it, we think she should take it.

“What do you think the good side of town looks like?” Wayne asks.

“Let’s go look.” We giggle as we drive the four blocks to the other side. It looks the same, although there are no red houses. Possibly Mary’s red house, so different from all the others, is what makes her side “bad.”[LH1] 

After 45 minutes in Rosholt, we’ve seen all there is to see. Back on the road, we return to Watertown. The girls and their husbands will have arrived while we’ve been gone, and we’ll all catch up over dinner and then go to bed early. The sale starts tomorrow at 10:00 a.m. and we need a good night’s sleep.

It’s Thursday, 9:00 a.m. It seems most people would be at work on a Thursday at 9:00 a.m. When I look out the window I see this is not true. It looks like most of the people in South Dakota are here in my brother’s front yard. There are cars packed into the circular drive and lined up on both sides of the long driveway leading to the county road. There are cars stopped on the road. There are men walking around with thermos bottles of coffee. A woman calls on the phone to ask if we are allowing early buyers. Marlys is firm that the sale starts at 10:00 a.m. as advertised.

My brother goes out to pull the flat trailers holding the furniture around to the front with his truck. He and Wayne and my niece’s husband Jason stay in the front to chat with the men and to keep people from taking the price tags off the furniture to claim it early.

At 10:00 a.m. sharp, we raise the garage door. Marlys tells of people crawling under the slow-moving door in years past to be first into the sale, but this year the door moves quickly enough and the opening is orderly. We hand out cardboard shopping boxes as our customers enter. Business is brisk and there is soon a line of people checking out, each with two or three overflowing shopping boxes. This goes on all day, in a steady flow. People come from all around, from farms, from towns in Minnesota and North Dakota. It’s a social occasion. The tables empty and we fill them again, re-fold, re-stack, replace. When a group of Hutterite women in long skirts and bonnets enter, their children in hand, heads turn surreptitiously. They are different and viewed with suspicion.

Marlys sits at the check-out desk all day, adding up sales, chatting with customers, evaluating the occasional request to take a check, deciding whether to reduce a price.

 “Would you take thirty-five dollars for that china hutch?” The woman points to a dark wood cabinet with a curved-glass door. The cabinet is marked $55.

“Oh dear. Well now, that hutch is my mother’s and there are a lot of memories associated with it.” Marlys’ expression is wistful, as if she is thinking back over the years that hutch was in her childhood home. “You can see there’s hardly a scratch on it. I don’t think I could let it go for thirty-five dollars.”

“Well then, would you take forty?” The woman looks back at the hutch. You can see she really wants it and has already imagined it filled with her own china. Then she looks at her husband, who is standing just outside the garage door next to the check-out desk.

“I’ll tell you what, I’m willing to split the difference with you,” Marlys smiles. “How about forty-seven fifty?”

The woman looks again at her husband, who nods. With a big smile on her face, she says, “Yes. That will be fine,” and reaches into her purse.

“Have a chocolate chip cookie, and one for your husband too.” Marlys takes two cookies from the plate next to her with a napkin and hands them to the woman as she takes her money with the other hand. In a moment the cookies are eaten and the hutch is on its way to a new home.

  Marlys is a born negotiator, and really seems to love the back and forth conversation with people coming through. My brother Jim has owned an excavation and demolition company for many years, and when a customer is slow to pay his bill, Marlys goes out. She always gets the money, even if she has to stand on the slow-payer’s porch for hours, patiently but determinedly talking through the screen door. It’s good for business in several ways, not the least being it saves my brother, whom I adore, from having to go out and lose his temper.

At 6:00 in the evening I go in to cook for our crew of eight. At 8:00 p.m. we close the garage door and Jim pulls the trailers back into his shop. It has been a full day, and we re-hash it over dinner and drinks before falling into bed.
 

* * *
 

For three days they file through to find a bargain, to find something different, to add something new to their lives. They are a friendly people, but reserved. There is little emotion, and if two women want the same thing, one stands back waiting for the other to politely acknowledge the other touched it first. There are no harsh words, no raised voices, and no children run crazily through the aisles. Children stand next to their mothers. The men for the most part wait outside, standing around talking grain prices and the weather, waiting to be consulted about a substantial buy or to carry a heavy item to the family truck. My brother stands with them. They all know each other. They all depend on each other. They are all customers, providers, diggers of each other’s basements, growers of each other’s food, granters of each other’s loans and credit. They are good people, and for the most part honest and upright.

Still, I wonder if there isn’t something more here, behind the extreme control of emotion. The longer I’ve been away, the more I see it when I return. A hint of it peeks through the careful placidity of these faces and the polite ordinariness of the conversation, the smile, the nod, the reluctance to touch, the prohibition of excess. Who are these people, really? Does the calm surface hide a dark place in the soul of a few, the legacy of Vikings and Huns, the ancient shadow of berserkers, passion, pillage and chaos? I hope so. It would make them more like me. It would help me feel less foreign here, less like an outsider.

Wayne and I leave Watertown the day after the sale is over, rising at 4:00 a.m. to drive back to Sioux Falls on the now-familiar north-south highway. A tornado went through the area just east and south of Sioux Falls the night before.  As we speed by in the dawn, we see tree branches and large pieces of metal strewn along the side of the road.  The people here may be reserved, but the wildness of the weather makes up for it.  It seems a good time to leave.

We board the little plane at Joe Foss Field, and settle in as we push away from the gate and taxi out for takeoff. With a surge of power, the plane pulls up, and the perfect quiltwork squares of the green fields are visible once more as we climb into the clouds. They are beautiful, and I smile at the pleasure I feel as I leave them behind.



 .

Sunday, October 5, 2008

The Escape

We arrived early in the evening. Highway 101 was slick as city lights began to appear on both sides through the pelting rain. We were finally in San Francisco and the long drive, a month of highways and little motels in strange cities, was nearly at an end.

Cathi was driving Daisy, my trusty 1961 VW Bug. I was navigating, peering through the swishing wiper blades and sheets of water at the city that would be our new home. Forty-five minutes passed and the lights didn’t stop coming. This must be the largest city in the world. Here we were hurtling through the night and the rain, country girls in a light green bubble. We had arrived at our destination and it hit us both that we didn’t know what to do next.

Suddenly terrified, we spotted an exit sign for Airport Shops. Shopping we knew, so we took the exit. All was dark in front of us. Where were the shops? Instead there was a huge neon sign to the right that read UNITED AIRLINES. We couldn’t see shops so we turned left and drove over the freeway into the lights. There was a motel on the right with a little bear on the sign and we pulled in. Minutes later we sat on the bed and looked at each other. “What do you think we should do now?” I wondered. We cried all night.

A month earlier, on the very first day of 1967 to be exact, we had said goodbye to our families and our small hometown in rural Minnesota. Daisy was packed to the windows with everything we owned in the world. My father had shaken my hand. He had never done so before, and I knew it was a momentous occasion for which I had somehow earned his respect. My mother, for once abandoning her Norwegian stoicism, had cried. I drove away with a lump in my throat, not daring to look back for fear I wouldn’t be able to make my escape.

I was 20 and so was my best girlfriend Cathi, although she would turn 21 before I did. We were on our way to adventure in California. When we hatched this plan over the kitchen table in our Minneapolis apartment during a vicious December snowstorm, we had known the names of only two cities in California – Los Angeles and San Francisco. Everyone we knew who had left for California had gone to Los Angeles. We were not the same as everyone we knew, so we decided to go to San Francisco. We knew no one there. We had never been there, nor had anyone we knew. We were sure it would be a nice place, and warm.

It was winter, and we had to go south before we could go west in order to avoid driving over the Rockies. We chugged through the frozen snow-covered countryside to Nebraska, then Kansas and finally emerged near Oklahoma City, where we picked up Route 66. The sun at last warmed the earth. I sent my dad red dirt from Oklahoma in an envelope. We couldn’t stop giggling in Amarillo, Texas when a whole family came into our coffee shop wearing ten-gallon hats. We sang the Route 66 song until we were sick of it.

Every night we called home collect and asked for ourselves, somehow managing to say where we were calling from before the operator cut in, so our parents could chart our progress on a map they kept by the phone.

In the mountains at Albuquerque winter returned and we stopped in a garage to get Daisy’s heater turned on. Daisy’s heat was either ON or OFF – it involved connecting and disconnecting hoses. In Flagstaff we stopped again to get the heat turned off.

Las Vegas was out of our way, but the lure was too great. We had of course heard of Las Vegas even in rural Minnesota. It was a land of myth and glamour - movie stars and bright lights and all night partying. We left Route 66 at Kingman, Arizona and headed north. We said we would take a break at Las Vegas. Although we had been on the road two weeks, we had never stayed anywhere more than one night. We had avoided the cities and had stayed in small towns – it was familiar and we knew what to do. Las Vegas was so different – even as we approached it the brilliance of the light rising from the desert floor was amazing. As Daisy, Cathi and I tooled down the Strip we couldn’t believe we were here. We could hardly drive for looking in all directions at once. There was the brand-new Caesar’s Palace with its huge fountain and gigantic columns. Over here was the Elvis Presley Wedding Chapel. Up the street was the Sands, where we would probably run into Frank Sinatra or Sammy Davis Jr. Excited, we found a little cheap motel on a back street and settled in. We would stay a few days and see what we could see.

Almost immediately we ran into, not Frank or Sammy or Elvis, but Patty Boxcars and his buddy - another minor hood whose “name” is lost to memory. They took us to casinos and lounge shows. They bought us drinks and dinners – mind you, shows and drinks were free in the casinos and dinners were $3.99 tops, but we were still impressed. I poured dish soap into Caesar’s fountain and we all frolicked in the bubbles until the Las Vegas police came by. Cathi and I partied till dawn and slept all day. We did not call our parents. We felt sophisticated in that atmosphere, as if it was a semi-formal ball where we knew people and where we belonged. Stupid as we were, we were lucky. Patty and his pal were good-hearted hoods and must have had some mid-century aversion to harming innocent girls from the Heartland. We emerged unscathed after a week, a little hung over and on our way to L.A.

Since we knew people in Los Angeles – all those who had left Minnesota for California before us - we planned to stay with a guy Cathi knew in Garden Grove before the final leg of our journey. We had already experienced many firsts on this journey – our first time in the mountains, our first desert, our first Las Vegas. Nothing had prepared us for the freeways of Los Angeles. The speed. The chaos. All the lanes, and the freeway numbers crossing each other, and the exits. We were past the exits by the time we could read the unfamiliar Spanish names, not that we knew which exit to take anyway. Daisy’s maximum speed was 60 mph and cars were flying by all around us. We were confused and scared, so we took the next exit that appeared and pulled into a gas station at the bottom of it, partly to calm down and partly to ask for help. We had an address and there was a street map in the station. We were going in the right direction, but we had to change freeways in a few miles. We wrote down the number of the freeway and the name of the right exit, and got back on.

Twenty minutes down the road I realized I had left my purse in that gas station. Both of us frantic and screaming, Cathi pulled Daisy off the freeway and turned around, heading back through the chaos and traffic to the place we had been. We didn’t remember the name of the exit and we really had no idea where we were, but somehow we found it. My purse was still there where I had left it, on the floor near the counter. My money and my driver’s license and my photographs and all my precious little personal things were still there, and we realized once again how lucky we were and how far we were from home.

Cathi’s friend in Garden Grove had a wall of beer bottles. We added 99 Bottles of Beer on the Wall to our musical repertoire. Garden Grove was no garden, far away from the ocean, dusty and hot. We stayed for a few days and left, very pleased with our decision to choose San Francisco over Los Angeles.

We completed the final leg of our journey in a day, traveling north on the King’s Highway, El Camino Real. For a while we had the beautiful beaches of the Pacific Ocean on our left – the edge of the continent. Then we turned inland to fields and small towns, a familiar reminder of the place we had come from except they were all called San-something or Santa-something. The rain began around King City and grew heavier as we labored north.



We arrived early in the evening. Highway 101 was slick as city lights began to appear on both sides through the pelting rain. We were finally in San Francisco. I had escaped.

Saturday, October 4, 2008

Meet Wayne


This is Wayne, my boyfriend and adventure companion.

Wayne's a great guy. He's very interesting and a lot of fun. He just graduated this June 2008 from JFK University with a Master's degree in Marriage and Family Therapy. Never stop learning!

Wayne is Irish/Scotch/Dutch, and he was raised in Albany, NY. He still has an upstate New York accent after 35 years in California. He loves to read, loves to talk, knows how to fix almost anything including the computer and enjoys tennis and kayaking. He is learning to golf. Best of all, he loves the blues, is a great dancer and knows how to have a good time.

You'll hear a lot about Wayne if you read about my adventures.

Travel Tips: Lost and Found

As I approached the table, I could see something had changed. There was a new tension, wary, tentative. Wayne hadn’t gotten lunch, for one thing, although there was no hurry. We had a couple of hours before our next flight. “What’s up?” I ventured as I pulled out a chair.

He hesitated. “I don’t have my wallet,” he said finally. “I think I must have left it on the plane.”

We were in Atlanta Hartsfield International Airport, on our way from San Francisco to New Orleans to meet up with friends. Now Wayne had no money and no ID. “Let’s go back to the gate and look,” I urged as I leapt into action. “It’s possible the plane is still there.”

We raced back; the gate was empty. We asked an agent working a nearby gate where a wallet would have been turned in if it had been found. We talked with a supervisor who very kindly radioed the pilot of the airplane we had come in on, now enroute to Los Angeles. Nothing. I went alone to check at Lost and Found, which was on the other side of Security, because Wayne wouldn’t have been able to get back in without his ID. Nothing.

The wallet was gone. Wayne was glum, angry with himself for leaving it on his seat after paying for a drink on the plane. The vision of the long-anticipated weekend was starting to look like a disaster. Suddenly he took a deep breath, sat up straight and exclaimed, “I’m going to have an even better time in New Orleans anyway!”

I have a friend I used to travel with who always reminded me that “Travel is an Adventure” when I got stressed about a missed plane or a crummy hotel room. You can choose to stay in the strong negative place, or you can choose to let go of it and make up for the hassle by having an especially good time of life. Wayne took the high road and I was grateful.

We journeyed on and partied as if we had no worries, spending my money instead of his. This is what credit cards are for, right? Our friends joined us in gorging on raw oysters and beer, savoring gumbo and good Dixieland jazz and strutting with the best of them on the first night of Mardi Gras. We told stories about the lost wallet and Wayne took some ribbing. True, we also took care of business. We made calls from the hotel to get credit card numbers and cancel them. Wayne had fortunately applied for a new driver’s license before we left on our trip and it had arrived at his home in Santa Cruz while we were gone. He got someone there to fax a copy of it to the hotel in New Orleans, but the hotel had a problem with their fax machine so we never did receive it. Good idea, but he still had no ID to get back into the airport for the homeward journey.

Wayne had let go of his disappointment and frustration, but in the back of my mind was the real challenge: getting him through airport security without identification in order to go home. Given the nature of security these days, it’s obvious this is the kind of issue you can’t leave for the last minute. I called our airline’s reservations office and asked for a Customer Service supervisor. When I explained our situation, she contacted the airline’s Airport Manager who called me back. He set us up to meet with the Supervisor on Duty the morning of our flight. We got her name and there we were – everything that could be done had been and it would be what it was.

We arrived at the airport two hours early, not sure what to expect. At the ticket counter, we asked for the supervisor by name and she was expecting us. She assured us this wasn’t an isolated thing; people lose their wallet or have their wallet stolen and most airports have a procedure in place to take care of it. She looked at my ID and we checked in. Then she walked with us to security and escorted us through. Wayne and his luggage were searched thoroughly, which wasn’t a surprise. It took about 15 minutes plus a few minutes to repack his bag and put his belt and shoes on, but we had no trouble. Soon we were on our way to the gate with plenty of time for coffee. So smooth, who would have guessed?

I guess the moral of this story is Watch Your Wallet. Keep an extra copy of your drivers license or passport in your luggage. And if it all goes wrong, ask for help. Happy travels!

Sunday, September 14, 2008

The Grape, Stranraer, Scotland


We were in transit from train to ferry, from Scotland to Northern Ireland, on a one-night stay in the harbor town of Stranraer. It wasn't a pretty town, it was a utility town, all about the huge ferry terminal and the sleek trimaran that would take us to Belfast in the morning. We bumped our roller-bags through town looking for a place to stay. An old woman we met on the street with a walker and a wonderful lilt in her voice pointed us to "her favorite" hotel up the hill. We went there, but it had apparently been closed for decades. Down the street we found a lovely home with a room available and stowed the luggage. It was time for refreshment.

We peeked in doors of bars and cafes. None beckoned. Finally we found The Grape, down a few steps from the street and through an ancient door. It was warm inside, a dark heavily-carved wood bar and tables filled with people, a cheerful fire in the grate. There were women here, something noticably missing from the other places we had peered into. Two stools were open at the bar; we took them and ordered drinks.

Our end of the bar was anchored by a group of the usual Irish/Scottish bar lads with their ales - ruddy-faced, a little boisterous, what you’d call experienced drinkers. They wanted to know where we were from and conversation erupted. One of our new friends was the owner of The Grape, a 400-year-old public house. Before we knew it, single malt scotches were lined up in front of us, each smoother and better than the last...try this, try this. Amazing hospitality and a memorable evening....

Thursday, September 11, 2008

Waikiki Beach, Oahu


The Beach at Waikiki
Dana Hill

A steady stream flowed off the nose of the statue of Duke Kahanamoku, father of modern surfing. It formed a pool at his feet and finally escaped in little rivulets running swiftly out onto the white sand, searching, searching to be reunited with the vast gray ocean.

It was raining on Waikiki Beach.

This was Wayne’s first trip to Hawaii, a favorite place of mine. I love the feel and smell of the air when you get off the plane in Honolulu, the heavy sweet scent of flowers wafting through the airport, open to warm ocean breezes and the sounds of waves breaking. I feel the air in my soul here, and I relax. I had eagerly planned this trip to share this aloha, this warm feeling, with my boyfriend Wayne.

It had been raining since the night before, when we arrived. “This is an unusually hard rain for Honolulu,” I commented in the taxi from the airport. “I’m really looking forward to hot beach weather tomorrow. Rain only lasts a few hours here, don’t worry. The sun is inevitable!”

Now it was morning and it was still raining. In the many times I’d been in Honolulu over the years, I couldn’t recall ever seeing rain in the morning. It was not beach weather. Kalakaua Avenue, the main street along the beach, was a sea of umbrellas. Surely by this afternoon the sun would return and we would go to the beach.....

San Miguel de Allende, Mexico

I love the patterns of plants, and this cactus in the hills high above San Miguel spoke to me. So creative and yet so geometric, like a giant artichoke!



Weathered and patient, he sat contemplating perhaps the state of the world or, more happily, the tranquillity of his surroundings. Majesty in ruin, strength in decay, his languid gaze seemed rooted in reflection.