Thursday, May 7, 2009

Hiking San Francisco

My boyfriend and I like to take visiting friends and family on a robust hike through some of San Francisco’s most famous neighborhoods. We teasingly call the experience The Forced March, and it is for our more fit friends. Join us, if you “fit” that description.

Start at the Ferry Building at Market and the Embarcadero On Saturday this is the site of the biggest and best farmers’ market in the Bay Area, where sustainably-grown and artisan food is nearly a religion. On other days the shops within the Ferry Building are well worth a stop. From Book Passage (books) to The Cowgirl Creamery (hand-made cheese), these shops are a temptation on their own. Pick up coffee and a pastry to fortify yourself for the hike ahead.

From the Ferry Building walk along the Embarcadero, past piers and shops and restaurants, to Fisherman’s Wharf. Notice the vintage streetcars clanging by on tracks in the center of the street. They’ve been salvaged from all over the world and many declare their city of origin on their colorful sides - Milan (orange), Melbourne (green and cream), Blackpool (cream and green with the open top) and San Francisco (gray and red). Watch out for runners, roller-skaters and skate-boarders as they throng the wide sidewalk.

Go right past Pier 39 and Fisherman’s Wharf – we’ll save those tourist delights for another day – and continue until you reach Hyde Street. Turn left and a block up you’ll see the Cable Car turnaround and the Buena Vista CafĂ© across the street from it. The Buena Vista, fondly known as the BV, is the U.S. birthplace of Irish Coffee (black coffee, Jamison’s Irish Whiskey, sugar and a topping of special whipped cream), and it has been a local hangout since it opened in 1916. http://www.thebuenavista.com/. If you are thirsty after the long walk (1.9 miles or 3km from the Ferry Building), you may want to stop in. Don’t stay too long, though, because the fearsome Hyde Street hill stands before you.

Go straight up Hyde Street, and I do mean straight up at a 20.67% grade. This will feel a lot like mountain climbing, without the equipment. As you pause to catch your breath, don’t forget to turn around to catch the stunning view - San Francisco Bay is at your feet, the Golden Gate Bridge gleaming orange in the sunlight over sparkling blue water. Alcatraz Island rises out of the gentle waves, rocks and empty prison gleaming, with wooded Angel Island behind it. The white buildings of Aquatic Park and the Maritime Museum stand in sharp relief against the worn wood planks and pilings of Fisherman’s Wharf. If you listen closely, you may hear sea lions barking as they bask in the sun. It is a postcard moment, one of many to come.

When you finally reach the top of the hill at Lombard Street, turn left and zigzag down the crookedest street in the world, past red brick homes and flower boxes overflowing with red geraniums and purple bougainvillea. Cars inch along the steep curvy street beside you. This time walking is a lot easier than driving!

At Columbus Avenue a few blocks ahead, turn right. You’ve only trekked 0.7 mile (1.1 km) from the BV, but it seems longer, thanks to The Hill. Now the scene changes, from the crab and fish-scented shops and restaurants of Fisherman’s Wharf to the aroma of garlic and good olive oil. This is North Beach, the traditional center of San Francisco’s Italian community. There is no longer a beach in North Beach, although there was in the 1850’s when the neighborhood was a sunny stretch of shore along a finger of the Bay that extended inland. Today Saints Peter and Paul Church ahead and on your left, twin spires soaring 191 feet into the blue sky, is a landmark in the area. Choose one of the many wonderful Italian restaurants along Columbus and around Washington Square. I like Rose Pistola for the food, the Washington Square Bar and Grill for the bar and Molinari, the ultimate San Francisco deli, for panini (Italian grilled sandwiches). It’s lunchtime and you can’t go wrong with a dish of pasta and a glass of wine, or with a panini and San Pellegrino. Mangia!

After lunch wander down Columbus toward Grant Avenue. You’ll know you’re going the right direction if you’re walking toward the huge triangular building at the end of Columbus, the Transamerica Pyramid. Stay on Columbus a half-block past Grant to stop at City Lights Bookstore, co-founded and still co-owned by Lawrence Ferlinghetti, one of America’s most beloved poets and a central figure in San Francisco’s Beat generation of the 1950’s. It’s a fine independent bookstore and a wonderful place to browse and people-watch.

Now walk back the half block to Grant Avenue, turn left and enter a different world, Chinatown. It may seem hard to believe you’re still in San Francisco as Chinese is the predominant language spoken here. Ginger and sesame are in the air, barbequed meat hangs in shops, and stalls of unfamiliar fresh fruits and vegetables line the streets. Shopkeepers call out to friends and children play on the sidewalk. Cars and bicycles crowd the noisy street. Early Chinatown was populated primarily by men, so it was called a "Bachelor Society." It was a world without women or children, though many men were married with families in China, until the early part of the 20th century. The sound of the laughter of children is particularly sweet in this part of the City. Peer into the shops, enjoy the hustle and bustle. There are many temptations, but don’t buy too much to carry. There is one more hill to climb!

When you reach California Street, you’ve walked 1 mile (1.7 km) from lunch in North Beach. Turn right at California and walk up the hill to the top. You are on Nob Hill, the home of the rich and famous in old San Francisco. Today some of the City’s most storied and luxurious hotels are located here. You’ll pass the Stanford Court Hotel on the way up, and the Mark Hopkins and The Fairmont San Francisco at the top. Most of the mansions that used to crown Nob Hill were lost in the 1906 earthquake and fire, but one remains – the Flood mansion, just past The Fairmont on your right. James Cair Flood was a sugar magnate and his former home now houses the Pacific-Union Club, a private social organization. A block further on California Street, The Huntington Hotel stands on your left. The Big 4 Restaurant inside The Huntington is named for the great railroad barons whose mansions once adorned this hill – Leland Stanford, C.P. Huntington, Mark Hopkins and Charles Crocker, a.k.a. the Big Four – and its bar is an intimate clubby place to have a cocktail. Another good choice would be the Top of the Mark, on the 19th floor of the Mark Hopkins Hotel, for a 360-degree view of San Francisco.

You’ve walked another .3 mile (.6 km) since you left Chinatown for a total of 3.9 miles (6.4 km) for the day. You go!

When you’re ready, getting down the hill is easy. Just retrace your steps California Street to Powell Street and catch one of San Francisco’s famous Cable Cars down Powell to the center of the City at Union Square and Market. Or catch the California St. Cable Car anywhere on California back to the Ferry Building to return to your starting point. The cable car is $5 per person (their website says $3, but don’t believe it), and the conductor will take your payment once you board. You should have exact change.

You’ve gotten plenty of exercise, you’ve had good food and drink, you’ve been in Italy and China, and you’ve walked through a bit of history today. You’ve climbed “halfway to the stars” and ridden a “little cable car” down.

Perhaps you’ve even left your heart in San Francisco.


What & Where
Ferry Building & Farmer’s Market (1 Ferry Building, the Embarcadero at Market 415-693-0996)
Buena Vista Cafe (2765 Hyde St, 415-474-5044)
Rose Pistola (532 Columbus Ave, 415-399-0499)
Washington Square Bar & Grill (1707 Powell St, 415-433-1188)
Molinari Delicatessen (373 Columbus Ave, 415-421-2337)
City Lights Bookstore (261 Columbus Ave, 415-362-8193)
Stanford Court (905 California St, 415-989-3500)
Intercontinental Mark Hopkins/Top of the Mark (1 Nob Hill, 415-392-3434)
Fairmont Hotel San Francisco (950 Mason Street, 415-772-5000)
Hotel Huntington/ Big 4 Restaurant (1075 California St, 415-474-5400)

Sunday, February 22, 2009

The Beach at West Edmonton Mall

They arrived in motor coaches from all over windswept central Canada - young and old, housewives and students, waitresses, drug store clerks, grandmothers and construction workers. In winter and in summer they came to the West Edmonton Mall to go to the beach, to sit under palm trees and sip umbrella drinks while waves broke on the sandy shore and heat baked their chilled bodies and warmed their spirits.

I was in Edmonton, Alberta, Canada on business, hosted by the Edmonton Convention and Visitors Bureau. The West Edmonton Mall, one of Edmonton’s most significant assets, is a shopping mall spanning the equivalent of forty-eight city blocks under one roof. At the time I was there it was the largest shopping mall in the world. It housed more than 800 stores and restaurants, a full-size hockey rink where the Edmonton Oilers NHL team practiced, an amusement park with a fourteen-story triple-loop roller coaster, a fantasy hotel where you could sleep in the back of a pickup truck or on a raft in a lagoon, and a beach.

The beach was fashioned after Waikiki Beach in Honolulu, Hawaii. Long and curved, it was covered with soft white sand and real palm trees waving in a gentle breeze. Waves lapped lazily against the shore, unless there was a surfing contest scheduled. Then wave machines under the water produced six-footers and teenagers paddled out on their boards and rode the waves in. Tanning lights replaced the sun, and there was never the disappointment of a rainy day. The beach was surrounded by glass.

On this day I peered through the steamy glass wall of the beach. A motor coach began to unload and a stream of people wearing heavy coats crowded through the door, kids running and yelling and women shouting at them to slow down or they would slip and fall. I spoke with an older woman in a parka wearing sunglasses and carrying a plastic beach bag and a pillow.

“How do you like this beach?” I asked her. “Have you come here before?”

She nodded, a little cautious about talking to a stranger. “It’s a nice place, and a bit of sun does me good.”

“Is it just as good as a real beach? I guess we’re a long way from a real beach here.”

“Well, I know about real beaches, I can tell you! I flew the airplane to Mexico once. The sand fleas bit me to pieces and I got sick from the food. Never again! Here I can just get on the coach and I’m here in a couple of hours. I have friends on the coach and we play cards. It’s a break from the cold.”

“Do you stay here at the Mall then?”

“Yes, I’m going to sleep in the back of a pickup truck tonight!” She smiled, excited. “You know, they have those rooms in the hotel. Haven’t slept in a pickup truck since, well….since I was a young girl.”

Her smile was suddenly embarrassed and her shyness returned. She hurried through the door into the beach. Apparently the pickup truck brought back fond memories.

I chose to sleep on the raft in the lagoon, another illusion that was accomplished with mirrors and lavish creativity. Indeed much of the floor and the entire ceiling in my very large room were covered in mirrors. There was a six-foot waterfall into the rock hot tub next to the mirror lagoon my king-size bed sat on, with ferns and the sounds of tropical birds. No birds, though, just the sounds. It appeared it was going to be tricky getting into bed, but once I reminded myself that the water was a mirror I just “waded” in. Alas, I was there alone.


The next day, after buying more than I had intended, I went to the beach myself. As I settled under my palm tree, I noticed no one there was quite as white-skinned as I was – the tanning lights were on the job. A lovely young woman in shorts and a bikini top took my drink order and the strains of a slack-key guitar wafted through the air. The high notes of children on the waterslides at the far end of the beach tinkled in the distance, and added to, rather than disturbed, my tranquility. I sat back, looked around and said to myself, not bad. Not real, but not bad. An illusion of Hawaii, bringing some warmth to the windswept plains of central Canada.

Travel Tips: Airport Insider Tips

We all know that airports can be a hassle these days but a little planning, preparation and common sense can make a big difference. Try these tips to help you breeze right through.

Be Prepared
1. Arrive early. Beat stress and arrive at least 90 minutes before your flight departure, 2 hours early if traveling international. Airport check-in lines and security lines can easily eat up an hour and most airlines require you to be boarded 20 minutes before scheduled departure time in order to hold your seat reservation.

2, Allow extra time during holiday periods.

3. Bring state-issued identification, like a driver’s license or valid passport.

4. Bring a valid passport if you are traveling to an international destination. Yes, Mexico and Canada are international destinations.

5. Carry a photocopy of your driver’s license or your passport (the page with your name and photo on it) in your baggage. Wallets get lost or stolen, and a photocopy can come in handy if you need proof of identity to get ID replaced or just to get back into the airport to get home.

6. Be sure you’ve checked well ahead of time with your travel agent or airline to find out whether you need a visa to go to your international destination.

7. Use electronic ticketing whenever possible. You have no tickets to lose, misplace, or forget.

8. Check in online. You will need your reservation confirmation number, the one you got when you confirmed your reservation. Print your boarding document at home so you can go right to the security line rather than stand in the check-in or kiosk line. This works for U.S. domestic destinations only.

9. Pack light. Then take things out and pack lighter. Checked baggage costs money these days and the size of allowable carry-on baggage is limited. Besides, why hurt yourself?

10. Don’t put urgently needed items in your checked baggage. Examples are tickets, passport, cash, medicine, glasses, contact lenses, the only copy of your novel. Lost baggage happens.

11. Don’t take valuable jewelry or large sums of money, particularly in your checked baggage. It’s best to leave your good jewelry home in a safe deposit box.

12. Put your name and phone number on the outside, and on the inside, of your baggage. Do this for both checked and carry-on baggage.

13. Be reasonable about your carry-on baggage. Most airlines allow one MEDIUM roller-bag and one SMALL bag like a purse, computer bag, or small backpack. If you have a roller-bag, a computer bag and a purse, you will have to be able to put the purse into one of your other bags. See Item #9. Pack light.

14, You will be allowed to bring 3.5 oz containers of liquids, lotions and gels through Security, nothing larger, and the containers must be in a sealed quart-sized plastic baggie. The container must be 3.5 oz or less, whether or not the container is full is irrelevant. Don’t bring larger containers of liquids, lotions and gels unless you plan to put them in checked baggage.

15. Bring food. In general, airlines don’t feed you anymore and your food is better anyway. Sandwiches and fruit work, smelly food and foods with liquids don’t work. Food can be taken on the airplane in addition to your carryon baggage allowance.

16. Do not bring drinks. Buy water or other drinks at the airport, once you’re past Security screening (see item #14).

17. Bring a good book or something fun to do, just in case your plans are disrupted and you have to amuse yourself for while.

At the Airport

18. Pay attention. As you’re standing in line to check in, keep up with the people in front of you who are moving forward.

19. If you check baggage, keep your claim check in a safe place where you can find it. Lost baggage happens.

20. Don’t lock your checked baggage. If Security personnel need to check your luggage enroute, they will either break the lock or refuse to allow your bag to go.

21. As you’re standing in line for Security, have your ID and your ticket ready and listen for airport personnel who screen for passengers trying to make soon-to-depart flights. You might get to speed ahead.

22. Wear shoes that are easy to take off and put on. This will help you get through the security line faster.

23. Don’t joke or make any comment about anything having to do with Security, or explosives, or anything like that. Going to jail will cause you to miss your flight.

24. Smile. Relax. Attitude is everything, particularly when others around you are anxious or annoyed. Lines, and especially Security lines, make people anxious.

25. Wear shoes. Airlines require that you wear sandals at minimum in order to board.

26. Listen closely for announcements at the gate. It might be important stuff.

27. Stay with your carry-on bag.

28. If you see an unaccompanied bag sitting around, tell an airline employee or a Security person.

29. Don’t joke or make any comment about anything having to do with security, or explosives, or anything like that at the gate either.

30. Stay out of the bar. Or, if you have hours to wait, limit yourself to one drink and have something to eat. Drunks can be refused boarding. Equally lame, you could sit in the bar and miss your flight departure.

31. If your airline offers departure screens at the gate, read them.

32. If you don’t have an actual seat assignment (like 27A), check in with the gate agent.

33. Stay at the gate and listen to the announcements. It could be something important, like an offer of money for getting off an oversold flight.

34. If your flight is oversold and you are flexible, in other words you don’t have to be somewhere at exactly the time you scheduled, it can be worth your while to volunteer to get off and take the next flight. The airline will give you free money and/or a free ticket for future travel. Be sure they have space on a later flight that works for you before you commit.

35. Board when your row or zone is called.

36. If you wait until the last minute to board, the airline can give away your seat to a standby passenger.

Getting Onboard

37. Put your carryon on your seat and step in out of the aisle to let others pass if you can.

38. If you can’t step out of the aisle, stow your larger bag overhead as quickly as possible and step out of the aisle so others can pass. Wait until you’re out of the aisle before taking off your coat and stowing your small bag under the seat.

39. Do not change seats without asking a Flight Attendant if all the passengers have boarded.

40. Do not get up to take one more thing out of your stowed luggage until after takeoff.

41. Sit down, buckle up and stay down. The pilot is not allowed to back the airplane out of the gate until everyone is seated.

42. Don’t put anything important in the seat pocket in front of you, like your ticket/boarding pass. It’s too easy to forget when you leave the airplane.

43. Put open-top carry-on bags under the seat in front of you with the open top facing you. Many a treasured item has been lost falling out of an open bag either in the overhead rack where you can’t see, or under the seats ahead on takeoff or landing. On second thought, don’t take open-top bags that don’t zip shut.

When Things Go Oh, So Wrong

44. Pay attention. If the gate agent says your flight is delayed, listen to her entire announcement. Possibly she will tell you whether it will be a short delay or whether it’s going to call for action. Maybe she’ll even call your name to give you information about your connection.

45. If your flight is cancelled, listen carefully to the announcement at the gate. If arrangements have been made for a new flight, the agent will say so.

46. If your flight is delayed or cancelled and there is a long line in front of the agent, call your airline’s reservation office either from your cell phone or from direct lines in the gate area if your airline provides them. Reservations personnel can tell you what new arrangements have been made for you.

47. Stay calm. Panic and hysteria won’t help. Something will work out.

48. It’s usually better not to go back through the Security checkpoint to talk to an agent at the front check-in counter.

49. In the case of a delay, stay in or near the gate area unless other specific arrangements have been made for you by the gate agent. Sometimes a delay is not so long as anticipated, and if the plane is suddenly ready and you’re not there, it may leave without you.

50. Know what you need, but be flexible. When you talk to the agent, offer suggestions if an alternate destination airport will work. Cooperation is often reciprocal.

51. Communicate your situation calmly and clearly. Perhaps you are meeting your unaccompanied 10-year-old child at the other end. Perhaps you are giving an important presentation tomorrow morning. Don’t lie or exaggerate. Sometimes excellent ideas and solutions come out of chaos when the real bottom line concern is known.

52. Smile. Relax. Remember, Travel is an Adventure! Right?

Thursday, January 8, 2009

The Beach at Southwold

The wind howls. The North Sea breaks onto the shore, spraying. The cold is penetrating. In fairness, the sun is out and the air is mild, but the wind is brutal. My turtleneck sweater and denim jacket are just warm enough.

There are sunbathers, unbelievably, although only one person is in the water – an older man bobbing around in the gray waves who must be frozen. He is not wearing a wetsuit, and his pale skin reflects the feeble sun. The sunbathers are picnicking inside windbreaker screens, in their swimsuits. Signs on a nearby kiosk advertise “rental windbreaks, beach chairs, towels and beach huts (£13)”. It is unclear whether the price will get you all the items on the list, or only the beach hut.

Wayne and I are in Southwold on the Suffolk Heritage Coast with our friends Gavin and Rosanne Kilbourn and their children Alex, who is also my godson, and Evie the Princess. Alex is 9 and Evie is 6. We are staying with the Kilbourns for a few days at their home in nearby Stowmarket before traveling on to Scotland. They are showing us the sights in their corner of England. Alex and Evie run on the beach, chasing birds and each other. Evie’s yellow pigtails fly in the wind. Gavin throws a rubber ball to them and they both chase it, laughing and screaming as it bounces toward the water. I look out over the frothing North Sea, imagining the land of my ancestors on the unseen other shore. I wonder if Norwegians sunbathe on a cold and windy North Sea beach.

Southwold is famous for its colorful beach huts. The pretty little boxes, some with porches, march along the walk above the beach on both sides of Southwold Pier, a tourist spot with a few shops and restaurants and a still-functioning 19th century Water Clock. Each of the brightly painted huts is tiny inside, consisting entirely of one room measuring 6’ x 8’ that opens on the beach side. These are not the rental huts, which appear to be the same size but don’t have porches and are all painted blue and white. The famous huts must be purchased, and they are hard to come by. They are not cheap, at £55,000 ($110,000 at this writing). You are allowed to use them from April to November, and you are not allowed to sleep in them. They are for day use only.

There are plenty of photos and paintings of the beach huts in the shops on the Pier. I take several photographs with my camera as an alternative to buying one.

“Why are these huts so hard to get?” I ask Rosanne. “They’re cute, but they’re so small. And is it ever really warm here?”
“Lucky you to have warm beaches! This is all we’ve got!” she replies with a laugh. “These beach huts are handed down from generation to generation, that’s why they’re so dear. It’s the old supply and demand – everyone wants one and no one ever gives them up.”

To be honest, our beaches aren’t all that warm in northern California, I admit to myself. But we certainly wouldn’t spend that kind of money for a 6’x 8’ box you can’t even sleep in on a frigid blowing-sand beach, would we?

This summer it has rained constantly in East Anglia, clearing only these last three weeks. It is mid-September, and there are lots of people on the beach and on the Pier, even though this is not beach weather to a Californian. It proves that beach weather is relative, and that people will seek out a beach experience whenever the weather is better than usual, as it is today.

Leaving the beach, we all walk through the little town, stopping to admire the architecture and the occasional thatched home. The children and Wayne climb on the bronze cannon in a corner park. We browse in shops, and lunch on very fresh fish and chips with local beer.

We return to the seashore, though, because it is most interesting. As I reflect on bronze California beach bodies leaping for volleyballs in the hot sun, a frigid shard of wet kelp blows across my leg and laughter comes from a nearby beach hut.

Tuesday, December 2, 2008

South Dakota - The Sale


                                  The Sale 

Lightning flashes on the horizon in all directions as we land in the last light of day, the wings of the small plane tipping toward the tarmac in the gusty wind, first one and then the other. The rippling flash disturbs the orderliness of the perfectly square, perfectly green, perfectly straight-rowed fields that surround Joe Foss Field in Sioux Falls, South Dakota. It creates shadows where there should be none. It lights uneven shapes in brilliance and leaves others hidden nearby, the flashes rolling like a kaleidoscope.

As always, these perfect fields seem sinister to me, lying in judgment of those whose edges are irregular, whose shapes won’t conform, like mine. And yet there is comfort in their regularity too, like the patchwork quilt you pull around your shoulders on a cold night. They are the shape of my first memories, the cry of emotion that has no name, the edges I push without thinking, the place from which I came out into the world. They are home.

Watertown, a city of 26,000 where my brother and his family live, is 90 miles north on a good highway. Although the sky has just now darkened, it is nearly 10:30 at night, evidence that we are far north where days are long in summer. My boyfriend Wayne and I are driving through the heart of the Sioux Nation, the gathering place of the old tribes. I am at the wheel of our rental car. Buffalo can still be seen grazing along this highway, although tonight they are not visible. The flatness stretches out over the plains and it’s easy to imagine the six-foot-tall grass that once covered it all, waving in the wind like an inland ocean. The night is hot and sticky, and the lightning show continues, shimmering across the horizon, first right, then center, then left, then in a tremendous flash lighting the whole sky. The gods are restless. There are few other cars on the road. A feeling of standing alone in the midst of all this drama falls over me, a tiny being on a pinto pony with a twitching tail disguised as a Ford Escort.

We drive on through the eerie night, maximum speed 75 miles per hour. Our ears are popping continuously although there isn’t a hill in sight—barometric pressure. In the blackness I feel the familiar tug of the past dragging me back into the girl I was. How easy it is to fall into the silence, as if it were normal. As the road sign for Watertown appears on our right—Watertown Exit 2 Miles—the sky rips open abruptly and a roaring flood engulfs our windshield. I hit the brakes, unable to see the road, and Wayne shouts, “I can drive!”

“I’m not getting out of this car to change places. We’ll drown, like turkeys,” I yell back. “I can make it two miles.”

The rain is unbelievably thick, coming down hard in sheets. It’s so loud we think it must be hail, but nothing bounces. I drive slowly, leaning forward as close to the window as the steering wheel will allow, hoping to see the exit through the deluge outside. There it is, and I ease off the dark streaming highway with a sigh of relief. Now there are the lights of restaurants and gas stations, signs of fragile civilization. I turn right and right again onto the county road leading to my brother’s new home on the hill.

From the road we see the house, front floodlights blazing in welcome. We pull into the circular drive and stop the car well in front of the triple garage doors. The rain continues to pound.

“Should we run for the house?” Wayne ventures, peering reluctantly out the window.

“Let’s wait a few minutes and see if it lets up.”

Five minutes pass, our breath steaming the windows, and it seems the roar diminishes. “OK, let’s go.” We throw open the doors and scramble to the shelter of the entry, leaving the luggage behind for now. Should we ring the bell at this hour? They are expecting us, although they normally go to bed early. Wayne tries the door and it gives. It is unlocked. We push it open and spot a large piece of paper, a note, on the floor inside.
 

Welcome, Wayne and Dana!

We have gone to bed. Your room is ready downstairs. There is wine and a snack in the kitchen. Have a good night’s sleep and we’ll see you in the morning!

Love, Marlys & Jim

 
I think of the book In Cold Blood, the innocent rural family murdered in the night by psychopathic drifters. I think of my pretty home in a good neighborhood in Oakland, and know I wouldn’t intentionally leave the door unlocked late at night for any reason. And then I remember we never locked any doors when my brother and I were growing up on our farm an hour and a half east of here.

The rain is now a gentle shower, and Wayne retrieves the luggage from the car. The note doesn’t say to lock the door, but I do and turn off the floodlights as well before we go to bed.

                                                          * * *


            Every year for the past six or seven years, my sister-in-law Marlys has held a garage sale in mid-summer. She says she loves it because her daughters and their boyfriends, then husbands, come to help and it’s a family party. I have never come for the sale, but this year it includes the contents of my 95-year-old mother’s home as well as that of my sister-in-law’s 92-year-old mother, so I have agreed to come from California to help.

Today, the day after our stormy arrival, dawns sunny, hot, and humid. It is the day before the sale begins, and the task of finishing the pricing lies ahead. After warm greetings all the way around and hugs over coffee, Marlys and I arm ourselves with stickers and pens and go out among the many tables, set up in rows to facilitate traffic flow and already piled with neatly stacked and arranged items.

Over the years, the sale has evolved from a one-day event to a three-day extravaganza. It has grown from covering the tops of a couple of tables in one bay of the garage to this year filling the entire three-car garage plus several of my brother’s large equipment trailers parked in front. My nieces and their husbands have cleared out their closets and storage places, and Marlys has emptied her secret stashes of furniture, clothing, games, books, tools, whole sets of dishes and myriad other things she has squirreled away. I know she buys many of these at auctions and farm sales during the year, often at very low prices, thinking her daughters might like this and that or she might use a certain item around the house. I hope she comes out even.

I work on my mother’s dishes and linens. It’s odd to handle these familiar things, these dish towels, these tablecloths, the plates and cups and bowls of my youth. There’s not much I haven’t seen before, although occasionally a surprise emerges. I turn over an old book written in Norwegian, and then another. I carefully unwrap a set of pewter salt and pepper shakers encased in fragile yellow paper. I haven’t seen these before. They are engraved Clara, my grandmother’s name, and I guess they were a wedding gift to my mother’s mother, who died long before I was born and whom I’ve been told I resemble. As I put them in my personal bag, an unexpected wave of regret and something like guilt brings tears to my eyes. My mother and I have had a difficult relationship. I still want to have her love and acceptance, and she is even less able to give that now than she was in younger years. I feel guilty for parting with her treasured things, although her fading mind doesn’t remember she ever had them and her faltering body has no earthly use for them any longer. Perhaps I will keep a few of the most precious of them, like these shakers, as a solace.

In the afternoon, Wayne and I have an errand. His former wife, also a friend of mine, grew up in a little town about 50 miles north of here, near the North Dakota border.  Mary still owns her mother’s home, the home she grew up in, in Rosholt, South Dakota, a town of 600 people. The house is standing vacant and is for sale. Mary left long ago to live in California and hasn’t been in Rosholt for many years, and she has asked us to go see what condition the house is in.

We’re driving the same highway we traveled the night before, which runs straight north and south the length of the state paralleling the border with Minnesota. Fields line both sides of the road in this farming country, although this far north the fields are more prone to be stacked with bales of straw than lined with rows of corn.

“Wayne, look at those huge round bales. When I was a child, they still gathered the hay and straw in shocks. I thought they looked like golden tepees.” I point out the window to a field filled with immense golden sushi rolls of hay.

“I remember seeing rectangular ones,” Wayne says. “I haven’t seen these big round things before. They don’t look like they’d stack very well.”

Right after he says this we pass a field where dozens of the big round rolls are stacked neatly end on end, squared off and in symmetry with the fields, undoubtedly a testament to the rightness and the rectitude of the farmer.

“That reminds me of a field I saw in Minnesota where the rectangular bales were stacked in the most amazing pattern,” I say. “It had empty spaces and geometric outcroppings made with the bales. That farmer was an artist, and brave too. And probably young.” Wayne laughs.

“Yeah, and he was probably from somewhere else too,” he says as he looks over at me. “I’ll bet he eventually had to conform and stack his bales like everyone else, or else he moved to California like you did.”

I nod, remembering how glad I had been to escape.

From the highway, we turn onto the county road leading to Rosholt, seven miles away. Soon we see a few buildings.

Rosholt has the look of all small towns in this part of the world. It looks like the towns around my hometown in southwestern Minnesota, rich in spirit and poor in resources. There are few choices—one grocery store, two gas stations, two bars, two churches (one Roman Catholic and one Lutheran)) and one furniture store whose owner doubles as the town’s undertaker, embalming the departed in the back room. Mary has told Wayne of sneaking into the back room of the furniture store as a young girl to watch the embalming. Entertainment here is limited.

Mary’s house is easy to find; it’s the only red house in town. Mary’s mother had it painted bright red, and she was proud of it. Wayne and I pull up in the driveway.

“I wonder if we should have tried to find the realtor to get the key,” Wayne says, as he turns the car off and opens his door. “Mary says the realtor doesn’t like to come over here because it’s on the bad side of town.”

“How could a town this small have a bad side?” I laugh, as I follow him up to the house.

Wayne tries the side door. It’s unlocked. He pushes it open onto a small porch. To the left is the inside door going into the kitchen. It’s also unlocked and it has a huge hole in it.

“Wow, this is kind of a mess.” The carpets inside the house are dirty and torn. The walls are stained with what looks like water leakage and there are a few empty cardboard boxes strewn about. Otherwise the house is empty. I take photographs all over the house to send to Mary. There is a car, 1970’s vintage, parked in the garage on the other side of the porch. I take photographs of the car, and the open door, and the tilting For Sale sign on the front side of the house.

There are several abandoned houses in Rosholt, including one across the street from Mary’s house. Mary thinks she has an offer for her red house, although it is a very low offer. Now that we’ve seen it, we think she should take it.

“What do you think the good side of town looks like?” Wayne asks.

“Let’s go look.” We giggle as we drive the four blocks to the other side. It looks the same, although there are no red houses. Possibly Mary’s red house, so different from all the others, is what makes her side “bad.”[LH1] 

After 45 minutes in Rosholt, we’ve seen all there is to see. Back on the road, we return to Watertown. The girls and their husbands will have arrived while we’ve been gone, and we’ll all catch up over dinner and then go to bed early. The sale starts tomorrow at 10:00 a.m. and we need a good night’s sleep.

It’s Thursday, 9:00 a.m. It seems most people would be at work on a Thursday at 9:00 a.m. When I look out the window I see this is not true. It looks like most of the people in South Dakota are here in my brother’s front yard. There are cars packed into the circular drive and lined up on both sides of the long driveway leading to the county road. There are cars stopped on the road. There are men walking around with thermos bottles of coffee. A woman calls on the phone to ask if we are allowing early buyers. Marlys is firm that the sale starts at 10:00 a.m. as advertised.

My brother goes out to pull the flat trailers holding the furniture around to the front with his truck. He and Wayne and my niece’s husband Jason stay in the front to chat with the men and to keep people from taking the price tags off the furniture to claim it early.

At 10:00 a.m. sharp, we raise the garage door. Marlys tells of people crawling under the slow-moving door in years past to be first into the sale, but this year the door moves quickly enough and the opening is orderly. We hand out cardboard shopping boxes as our customers enter. Business is brisk and there is soon a line of people checking out, each with two or three overflowing shopping boxes. This goes on all day, in a steady flow. People come from all around, from farms, from towns in Minnesota and North Dakota. It’s a social occasion. The tables empty and we fill them again, re-fold, re-stack, replace. When a group of Hutterite women in long skirts and bonnets enter, their children in hand, heads turn surreptitiously. They are different and viewed with suspicion.

Marlys sits at the check-out desk all day, adding up sales, chatting with customers, evaluating the occasional request to take a check, deciding whether to reduce a price.

 “Would you take thirty-five dollars for that china hutch?” The woman points to a dark wood cabinet with a curved-glass door. The cabinet is marked $55.

“Oh dear. Well now, that hutch is my mother’s and there are a lot of memories associated with it.” Marlys’ expression is wistful, as if she is thinking back over the years that hutch was in her childhood home. “You can see there’s hardly a scratch on it. I don’t think I could let it go for thirty-five dollars.”

“Well then, would you take forty?” The woman looks back at the hutch. You can see she really wants it and has already imagined it filled with her own china. Then she looks at her husband, who is standing just outside the garage door next to the check-out desk.

“I’ll tell you what, I’m willing to split the difference with you,” Marlys smiles. “How about forty-seven fifty?”

The woman looks again at her husband, who nods. With a big smile on her face, she says, “Yes. That will be fine,” and reaches into her purse.

“Have a chocolate chip cookie, and one for your husband too.” Marlys takes two cookies from the plate next to her with a napkin and hands them to the woman as she takes her money with the other hand. In a moment the cookies are eaten and the hutch is on its way to a new home.

  Marlys is a born negotiator, and really seems to love the back and forth conversation with people coming through. My brother Jim has owned an excavation and demolition company for many years, and when a customer is slow to pay his bill, Marlys goes out. She always gets the money, even if she has to stand on the slow-payer’s porch for hours, patiently but determinedly talking through the screen door. It’s good for business in several ways, not the least being it saves my brother, whom I adore, from having to go out and lose his temper.

At 6:00 in the evening I go in to cook for our crew of eight. At 8:00 p.m. we close the garage door and Jim pulls the trailers back into his shop. It has been a full day, and we re-hash it over dinner and drinks before falling into bed.
 

* * *
 

For three days they file through to find a bargain, to find something different, to add something new to their lives. They are a friendly people, but reserved. There is little emotion, and if two women want the same thing, one stands back waiting for the other to politely acknowledge the other touched it first. There are no harsh words, no raised voices, and no children run crazily through the aisles. Children stand next to their mothers. The men for the most part wait outside, standing around talking grain prices and the weather, waiting to be consulted about a substantial buy or to carry a heavy item to the family truck. My brother stands with them. They all know each other. They all depend on each other. They are all customers, providers, diggers of each other’s basements, growers of each other’s food, granters of each other’s loans and credit. They are good people, and for the most part honest and upright.

Still, I wonder if there isn’t something more here, behind the extreme control of emotion. The longer I’ve been away, the more I see it when I return. A hint of it peeks through the careful placidity of these faces and the polite ordinariness of the conversation, the smile, the nod, the reluctance to touch, the prohibition of excess. Who are these people, really? Does the calm surface hide a dark place in the soul of a few, the legacy of Vikings and Huns, the ancient shadow of berserkers, passion, pillage and chaos? I hope so. It would make them more like me. It would help me feel less foreign here, less like an outsider.

Wayne and I leave Watertown the day after the sale is over, rising at 4:00 a.m. to drive back to Sioux Falls on the now-familiar north-south highway. A tornado went through the area just east and south of Sioux Falls the night before.  As we speed by in the dawn, we see tree branches and large pieces of metal strewn along the side of the road.  The people here may be reserved, but the wildness of the weather makes up for it.  It seems a good time to leave.

We board the little plane at Joe Foss Field, and settle in as we push away from the gate and taxi out for takeoff. With a surge of power, the plane pulls up, and the perfect quiltwork squares of the green fields are visible once more as we climb into the clouds. They are beautiful, and I smile at the pleasure I feel as I leave them behind.



 .

Sunday, October 5, 2008

The Escape

We arrived early in the evening. Highway 101 was slick as city lights began to appear on both sides through the pelting rain. We were finally in San Francisco and the long drive, a month of highways and little motels in strange cities, was nearly at an end.

Cathi was driving Daisy, my trusty 1961 VW Bug. I was navigating, peering through the swishing wiper blades and sheets of water at the city that would be our new home. Forty-five minutes passed and the lights didn’t stop coming. This must be the largest city in the world. Here we were hurtling through the night and the rain, country girls in a light green bubble. We had arrived at our destination and it hit us both that we didn’t know what to do next.

Suddenly terrified, we spotted an exit sign for Airport Shops. Shopping we knew, so we took the exit. All was dark in front of us. Where were the shops? Instead there was a huge neon sign to the right that read UNITED AIRLINES. We couldn’t see shops so we turned left and drove over the freeway into the lights. There was a motel on the right with a little bear on the sign and we pulled in. Minutes later we sat on the bed and looked at each other. “What do you think we should do now?” I wondered. We cried all night.

A month earlier, on the very first day of 1967 to be exact, we had said goodbye to our families and our small hometown in rural Minnesota. Daisy was packed to the windows with everything we owned in the world. My father had shaken my hand. He had never done so before, and I knew it was a momentous occasion for which I had somehow earned his respect. My mother, for once abandoning her Norwegian stoicism, had cried. I drove away with a lump in my throat, not daring to look back for fear I wouldn’t be able to make my escape.

I was 20 and so was my best girlfriend Cathi, although she would turn 21 before I did. We were on our way to adventure in California. When we hatched this plan over the kitchen table in our Minneapolis apartment during a vicious December snowstorm, we had known the names of only two cities in California – Los Angeles and San Francisco. Everyone we knew who had left for California had gone to Los Angeles. We were not the same as everyone we knew, so we decided to go to San Francisco. We knew no one there. We had never been there, nor had anyone we knew. We were sure it would be a nice place, and warm.

It was winter, and we had to go south before we could go west in order to avoid driving over the Rockies. We chugged through the frozen snow-covered countryside to Nebraska, then Kansas and finally emerged near Oklahoma City, where we picked up Route 66. The sun at last warmed the earth. I sent my dad red dirt from Oklahoma in an envelope. We couldn’t stop giggling in Amarillo, Texas when a whole family came into our coffee shop wearing ten-gallon hats. We sang the Route 66 song until we were sick of it.

Every night we called home collect and asked for ourselves, somehow managing to say where we were calling from before the operator cut in, so our parents could chart our progress on a map they kept by the phone.

In the mountains at Albuquerque winter returned and we stopped in a garage to get Daisy’s heater turned on. Daisy’s heat was either ON or OFF – it involved connecting and disconnecting hoses. In Flagstaff we stopped again to get the heat turned off.

Las Vegas was out of our way, but the lure was too great. We had of course heard of Las Vegas even in rural Minnesota. It was a land of myth and glamour - movie stars and bright lights and all night partying. We left Route 66 at Kingman, Arizona and headed north. We said we would take a break at Las Vegas. Although we had been on the road two weeks, we had never stayed anywhere more than one night. We had avoided the cities and had stayed in small towns – it was familiar and we knew what to do. Las Vegas was so different – even as we approached it the brilliance of the light rising from the desert floor was amazing. As Daisy, Cathi and I tooled down the Strip we couldn’t believe we were here. We could hardly drive for looking in all directions at once. There was the brand-new Caesar’s Palace with its huge fountain and gigantic columns. Over here was the Elvis Presley Wedding Chapel. Up the street was the Sands, where we would probably run into Frank Sinatra or Sammy Davis Jr. Excited, we found a little cheap motel on a back street and settled in. We would stay a few days and see what we could see.

Almost immediately we ran into, not Frank or Sammy or Elvis, but Patty Boxcars and his buddy - another minor hood whose “name” is lost to memory. They took us to casinos and lounge shows. They bought us drinks and dinners – mind you, shows and drinks were free in the casinos and dinners were $3.99 tops, but we were still impressed. I poured dish soap into Caesar’s fountain and we all frolicked in the bubbles until the Las Vegas police came by. Cathi and I partied till dawn and slept all day. We did not call our parents. We felt sophisticated in that atmosphere, as if it was a semi-formal ball where we knew people and where we belonged. Stupid as we were, we were lucky. Patty and his pal were good-hearted hoods and must have had some mid-century aversion to harming innocent girls from the Heartland. We emerged unscathed after a week, a little hung over and on our way to L.A.

Since we knew people in Los Angeles – all those who had left Minnesota for California before us - we planned to stay with a guy Cathi knew in Garden Grove before the final leg of our journey. We had already experienced many firsts on this journey – our first time in the mountains, our first desert, our first Las Vegas. Nothing had prepared us for the freeways of Los Angeles. The speed. The chaos. All the lanes, and the freeway numbers crossing each other, and the exits. We were past the exits by the time we could read the unfamiliar Spanish names, not that we knew which exit to take anyway. Daisy’s maximum speed was 60 mph and cars were flying by all around us. We were confused and scared, so we took the next exit that appeared and pulled into a gas station at the bottom of it, partly to calm down and partly to ask for help. We had an address and there was a street map in the station. We were going in the right direction, but we had to change freeways in a few miles. We wrote down the number of the freeway and the name of the right exit, and got back on.

Twenty minutes down the road I realized I had left my purse in that gas station. Both of us frantic and screaming, Cathi pulled Daisy off the freeway and turned around, heading back through the chaos and traffic to the place we had been. We didn’t remember the name of the exit and we really had no idea where we were, but somehow we found it. My purse was still there where I had left it, on the floor near the counter. My money and my driver’s license and my photographs and all my precious little personal things were still there, and we realized once again how lucky we were and how far we were from home.

Cathi’s friend in Garden Grove had a wall of beer bottles. We added 99 Bottles of Beer on the Wall to our musical repertoire. Garden Grove was no garden, far away from the ocean, dusty and hot. We stayed for a few days and left, very pleased with our decision to choose San Francisco over Los Angeles.

We completed the final leg of our journey in a day, traveling north on the King’s Highway, El Camino Real. For a while we had the beautiful beaches of the Pacific Ocean on our left – the edge of the continent. Then we turned inland to fields and small towns, a familiar reminder of the place we had come from except they were all called San-something or Santa-something. The rain began around King City and grew heavier as we labored north.



We arrived early in the evening. Highway 101 was slick as city lights began to appear on both sides through the pelting rain. We were finally in San Francisco. I had escaped.

Saturday, October 4, 2008

Meet Wayne


This is Wayne, my boyfriend and adventure companion.

Wayne's a great guy. He's very interesting and a lot of fun. He just graduated this June 2008 from JFK University with a Master's degree in Marriage and Family Therapy. Never stop learning!

Wayne is Irish/Scotch/Dutch, and he was raised in Albany, NY. He still has an upstate New York accent after 35 years in California. He loves to read, loves to talk, knows how to fix almost anything including the computer and enjoys tennis and kayaking. He is learning to golf. Best of all, he loves the blues, is a great dancer and knows how to have a good time.

You'll hear a lot about Wayne if you read about my adventures.